Despite a minimum drinking age of 18, partying in Florence is a determinedly young scene, with students fresh out of school getting their first taste of freedom and enjoying the proliferation of inexpensive wine and flexible licensing hours – some pubs stay open until 0100 or even 0300. The most bohemian area is the Oltrarno, south of the river, where bright young things can play until the small hours. Elsewhere, nightlife is concentrated around Piazza della Signoria, home of more sedate venues. Florentines, like most Italians, are self-consciously stylish with a definite bent towards smart, conservative dress. Dress up, take a pew outside one of the city’s elegant cafés and enjoy being admired in a city where beauty is taken for granted.

As with any university city, bars and clubs experience peaks and troughs of popularity. To find out where the action is, buy Firenze Spettacolo – the city’s definitive entertainment publication – or check out Florence Today, a free listings publication distributed twice a month. Entry to clubs is expensive at around €13, although tickets usually include a free drink at the bar.

Bars: For a glimpse of an authentic Italian watering hole, wend your way to Le Volpi and L’ Uve, Piazza de’Rossi 1, to sample some of the best wines the region has to offer. The owners, Riccardo and Emilio, can advise a plate of salami and cheese to accompany your choice of wine. Rex, Via Fiesolana 25r, is a sound bet for chic company, good mixers and tasty tapas, while for great snacks in the city centre, try Cantinetta del Verrazzono, Via dei Tavolini 18-20r. Strictly for homesick ex-pats is the Fiddler’s Elbow, Piazza Santa Maria Novella 7r, an Irish-style pub with satellite television, a good line in Guinness and would-be Celts. South of the river, La Dolce Vita, Piazza del Carmine, is more laid-back and popular with students who spill out onto the piazza. Then there is tiny Vini, Via dei Cimatori 38, a simple wine counter – one of the last in the city – founded in 1875. Just stand on the pavement with the other customers and enjoy the wine. There is old-fashioned appeal at Casa del Vino, Via del Ariento 16r, situated close to the central market. For lovers of sangria, Sulamanca, Via Gibellina 80, is a Spanish bar that also serves up Spanish food and satellite television.